23rd June 2002
After meeting up with Ronnie
and Parwez O'Shea on Thursday we went out for the evening in
downtown Busan. Looking for a restaurant, we spotted
some cute little puppies in a cage outside a shop, we couldn't
smell cooking, so we walked on. The locals seemed to find us
very amusing, it was fun to be the centre of attention, but we
never quite got the joke.
One hangover later, we were on a train to Ulsan, we
knew it was a train, because it was long and thin and had
carriages, but that's where the similarity to Japan's network
ended.
On arrival in Ulsan, we
walked into town and found a bar where we could watch the
all-important England v Brazil match. In the bar were
two Englishmen, two bitter Jocks, two Irishmen and a balance
of sceptics and Ruudi Voller clones. Hardly had we
finished supping our first pitcher of lager, but us England
lads were jumping with joy - we were beating the
Brazilians! Our grins were bigger than one of Ronnie's
Scotch pies.
When the samba boys sadly equalised, it was clear to see
that even the fat folk from across the pond wanted Brazil to
win Ronnie's namesake (but with more hair and teeth) was to
make their dreams come true, wee Ronnie O'Shea was
jumping up and down like a leprechaun who'd just found another
pot o' gold, as the ball flew into the net.
Having cried into my beer (difficult when you`re drinking
from a bottle), and wiped away the tears, we headed off to
Ulsan stadium for the Germany v USA game, t
he Americans had really gotten
into the spirit with painted faces, sprayed hair, and stars
and stripes wherever they could fit them. Not to be outdone,
some of the Germans were wearing coloured hats. The result was
no big surprise, nor was ze folume of ze Chermans zinging
during ze train ride back to Busan.
The only good result on Friday was that I managed to get
hold of a ticket for the Korea v Spain game. I took the
four-hour bus ride to Gwangju where (now draped in a
Korean flag) I met up with Gavin, who'd sold me the
ticket. Turns out he'd been given such a good offer for his
own match ticket, he'd sold that too! Luckily he managed to
find one at a lower price outside the ground (tickets have
been available at almost every game if you have the cash,
often less than face value).

The atmosphere in the
stadium was enormous, never have I seen or heard a whole
ground singing and jumping about in such unison, and with such
commitment. The sea of red that can be seen on TV is not in
fact Koreans wearing their team`s shirt, but a red T-shirt
bearing the words "Be The Reds", almost every single
person in Korea, from babies to grannies, are wearing them.
The noise and vigour of the
crowd continued right to the final whistle, and then
throughout the exciting extra time and penalties, but that was
just the beginning. Outside the stadium and in town the real
parties exploded. Completely knackered, I called it a day
at three in the morning, but many Koreans would be
seeing the sun rise long before seeing their beds.
Korea for the cup!